Commitment to innovation

Report from London Fashion Week

22 SEPTEMBER 2014,
Backstage of the Ashley Isham Fashion show, London Fashion Week © Maria Georgievskaya
Backstage of the Ashley Isham Fashion show, London Fashion Week © Maria Georgievskaya

London Fashion week is always an exciting mix of originality and international sophistication. Designers love showing here because it feels vibrant and cosmopolitan, with a modern edge which you can not find anywhere else but in London.

It is a highly seductive place to be in and a world of fantastic clothes and fabulous parties where we, the fashion elite, mingle and get to exchange ideas.

Apart from all the glamour and fun, let's not forget about all the hard work that goes behind the scene and the total dedication from the designers, hair and makeup artists, stylists and production teams that make this wonderful event possible.

She walks in Beauty

Ashley Isham, S/S 2015 (12.09.2014.)

Every year the Free Mason hall hosts Fashion Scout who have presented in London and Paris a new generation of designers.

Ashley Isham originally from Singapore has been designing for many years and is no doubt a very talented artist. I have seen it first hand as I have styled his collection for several seasons. His approach is quite original mixing Fashion, performance and art all in one. His design are unique in the sense that he has a totally different approach to anyone I have ever met. The focus of his collection is always to make a woman look beautiful contemporary and feel glamorous, his signature draping are flattering and elegant.

His S/S collection is inspired by the legendary and exotic Mata Hari and all gowns were exquisitely hand crafted, hand draped to create the extreme opulence. Every single garment is proudly made in England.

Be Dazzled

Hunter Original, S/S 2015 (13.09.2014.)

British heritage brand Hunter today marked its return to London Fashion Week, introducing the Hunter Original spring/summer 2015 collection. The second show since its debut in February, the brand showcased its first spring/summer collection featuring new footwear styles, ready-to-wear and accessories.

Alasdhair Willis, Hunter's Creative Director said: "The first Hunter Original spring/summer 2015 collection explores contradictions born out of a quintessential British sense of eccentricity and quest to innovate. A central story to the collection is Dazzle, a revolutionary form of camouflage that is all about contradiction. It makes the object it is protecting even more visible but works by confusing the viewer through optical illusion and distorting depth of field. Invented by the pioneering British painter Norman Wilkinson, dazzle represents 'twisted convention' and ultimately 'innovation through creativity' both of which are core to the Hunter brand."

For the show, which took place on the site of an original swimming pool in central London, Hunter collaborated with visual artist Mat Maitland on a film that captures this spirit of the unexpected. Acting as a backdrop and extending the narrative of the collection, the film played out on giant LED screens in the centre of the show space. Diversity and eccentricity are a few words to describe this experience very well.

Confidence and Strength

Julian MacDonald, S/S 2015 (13.09.2014)
MM: What is your motto?

JMD: Live a happy life and remember the people who contributed to your daily happiness

MM: Who is your Iconic woman?

JMD: Marilyn Monroe and my mother.

MM: What inspires you?

JMD: Everyday things, my travels, my holidays, my friends. The world inspires me.

MM: Who has style?

JMD: Her Majesty the Queen, Daphne Guinness, and the women that I meet who exude confidence and strength.

MM: Describe your collection in a few words.

JMD: strong, confident, sexy, wearable.

Spring/Summer 2015 sees a new woman for Julian Macdonald. She is as always sexy and confident but also wearable.

Body conscious tailored dresses slashed on the thigh with tulle insert floral appliqué and knitted cobweb panels with mirrored mosaic and embroidered details. Ruffled swimsuit, tulle and lace baby doll and a sexy wedding dress.

Gowns slashed to the waist with frills or see through panels in a variety of soft palettes silver -golds and nude colours. High glamour Perfect for the red carpet.

A fairy tale come true

Marchesa, S/S 2015 (13.09.2014)

A bohemian fantasy and a Pre- Raphaelite beauty these dresses are what dreams are made of. Billowing sleeves, silk tiered ruffled layers, lace, embroidery, shades of jade and floral threadworks 3- D flowers handmade sequins and painted silk Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig are in London to show their romantic and seriously fabulous collection.

The success and longevity of this designer is thanks to its constant vision of creating beautiful dresses that have graced the red carpet many times. If you want beautiful gowns look no further this is it.

Chasing Rainbows

Matthew Williamson, S/S 2015 (14.09.2014.)

This collection comes straight from the heart and it does evoke the carefree attitude of a long hot summer , relaxed glamour a sense of easy movement and distinct femininity. Silhouettes are soft and languid, laid back suits, pleating, drapery and gentle waterfall ruffles glides through the body

Artisanal craftsmanship is important as always for Matthew Williamson , brocade and embellishment and hand painted palms appear within the prints as well as hibiscus flowers. Beautiful, dreamy and fabulous it feels like we are chasing a rainbows.

A time for Evolution

Temperley, S/S 2015 (14.09.2014.)

Slouchy and boxy suiting and an inspiration of naughty Japanese prints is the inspiration behind this vibrant, fresh, young and modern collection. Having merged Alice by Temperley into the mainline collection Temperley London, it now offers a more relaxed day into evening versatile style. The radiant colour palettes takes inspiration from Japanese Shunga Ink paintings and the patterns of woodblock prints illustrated on silks, knits and embroidery. The vibe is bohemian throughout with lace accents, kimono references, skirts worn over trousers, swing coats, quilted jackets, chiffon dresses, layering of scarfs all retaining its sexy attitude an elegant wearability.

Hot in the City

Paul Smith, S/S 2015 (14.09.2014)

Paul Smith presents an honest and effortless way to dress for S/S 2015

A touch of masculine details and a deconstructed tailoring combined with silk blouses, nipped in tuxedo pants, oversized culottes, accents of brights and bold stripes, fringed long tops, soft but business type jacket bring freshness and diversity. Relaxed work wear for the city finds new ways to be worn. The fabrics are elegant and contrasting mixing the rough with the smooth, linen sit alongside smooth satin and cotton, florals, muted colours, off whites shades of pales and occasionally black make this collection wearable yet exciting.

An anarchic day

Vivienne Westwood, S/S 2015 (14.09.2014.)

Ethical and political Vivienne Westwood never cease to surprise us all. The show is highly charged with drama with bold make up and with slogan referring to the voting in Scotland Oversized and bold tailoring and the signature corset dresses that make any woman look desirable yet powerful are one of the key factor to her longevity. The colours are aubergine, pale blue and tangerine mixed with whites and blacks.

Modern Ease

David Koma, S/S 2015 (14.09.2014.)

David Koma presented a body-con collection, his trademark angular lines , geometric patterns and asymmetry dominated but there is an approach to softness with supple fabrics, transparent linear inserts and sexy cut out revealing just a touch of flesh and a more feminine feel to it.

There is an elegant and sporty flowing through and a Mondrian-esque colour palettes which shows that these clothes are made for a sensual powerful woman.

The Birds and the Bees

Burberry Prorsum, S/S 2015 (15.09.2014)

The show is aptly named the Birds and the Bees and sitting here in anticipation I am half expecting to see all kinds of insects and birds flying around instead we are serenaded by a beautiful live performance of acoustic musician James Bay

As the catwalk commences it is an array of colours and lot's of see through layered tulle , draped skirts, oversized butterfly prints , flowers and insects and bright books design also adorn a variety of dresses as if all selected from an English garden, gabardines degrade silk and suede and wasp-waisted denim jackets cover them all up all , we are definitely spoiled for choice.

There is a sense of freedom and nonchalance with the occasional swatch of fabric tying the famous trademark trench coats that are simply divine and make the collection come together.

Pop art Chic

Issa, S/S 2015 (15.09.2014.)

Issa opens the show with what seems to be a volcanic explosion of fluidity, black and white prints, engineered dresses, textured floral shapes in a white macrame', playful power knits in bandeaux and cut out shapes.

Equestrian reference throughout combined with Pop art. The chic monochrome palette is accented with Fuchsia, mango, peach nude, lavender, metallic and high shines.

Flat shoes worn throughout with these looks of sharp separate.

Psychedelic Candy Floss

Peter Pilotto, S/S 2015 (15.09.2014.)

Peter Pilotto and Christopher de Vos colourful collection of spectral palette pulses energetically throughout leaving the viewer with an uplifting feeling.

A transcendent wash of colour, a constellation of swirling geometry, classical draping paired with featherweight knits, a silhouette of trim bodices, A line skirts, handkerchief hems, ultra slim trouser, embroidered coats, digital prints all float over the skin.

The summer of 2015 certainly looks like a bright warrior of love covered in paisley rosettes made of perspex dripping in sumptuous Swarovski crystal.

A sexy Summer

Tom Ford, S/S 2015 (15.09.2014)

Nobody does it better than Tom Ford when it comes to mixing sexuality and fashion This collection is partly inspired by Carlo Molino photographs and a mix of rock and roll sensuality. Teased hair, smokey eyes and a mirrored catwalk set the scene for these endless legs to be put on display. The aesthetics is all on the long lean and mean legs one might say ,cut away skirts, high waisted trousers with killer flares, short dresses, see through tops, embroidered harness gowns, mesh tops , tulle trousers, leather trims, metallic gold long sleeve dress, gold leather chain embroidery, black sequins.

This silhouette as a contemporary edge with red carpet gowns to knock you out.