This season, Brioni will use a mix of models and young affluent men originating from the variegated worlds of art, fashion, photography, and international business, among others, to unveil its fall winter 2012/13 collection.
The concept of using real men carries over from the spring/summer 2012 advertising campaign when Brioni tapped Vegard Vik, the special services chief at Oslo’s Police department, to front the images shot on a sail boat by Irish photographer Boo George.
The location chosen for the F/W installation is La Triennale.
This iconic space serves as a backdrop for the theme of the presentation: a day in the life of the Brioni customer with a focus on the new generation A powerful, confident and modern man with strong personality who lives luxury daily with extreme ease, authenticity and nonchalance.
Every season he indulges with new pieces, further building his sumptuous wardrobe and personal style.
The installation rotates around a large central island decorated and divided into separate rooms for four key moments in the day : in the boardroom, a visit to the tailor, unwinding during “aperitivo” time, and a game of poker at a black tie event.
The tailoring room, for example, is furnished with antique furniture and to enhance the made-to-measure service, a young Brioni tailor from the company’s s Penne headquarters displays his tailoring and sartorial skills.
As always, the product is king. A case in point is a fitted three-piece suit made with a super fine wool stripe enriched with a discreet 24 carat gold thread.
The mood, colors and textures recall a journey to the cold latitudes of Greenland and the Arctic, reinterpreted for a contemporary urban explorer.
The highlights are “Foglia,” a softly constructed, knee-length coat that is equally chic over a suit or a chunky cashmere sweater and luxurious winter staples - a suede puffer coat and a leather bomber jackets lined in sheared mink.
Three piece suits are cut close to the body and feature double breasted vests while a cashmere car coat, also lined in mink, is reversible.
Knitwear features suede, crocodile and horn details. Night outings and social rendezvous are characterized by formal suits in edgier fabrics such as wool jacquards a velvet tuxedo and a silk/wool cocktail jacket in antique gold.
Surface movement distinguishes the rigorously wintery fabrics- Shetland flannels, salt and pepper mélanges, Prince of Wales and windowpane checks, hopsack and Donegal, in an icy color palette peppered by cozier underwood tones – artic grey, sky and abyss blue, tundra brown, glacier, mineral, baffin red, sulphur and chestnut.
Crocodile, in both matte and shiny versions, or combined with suede, rules on the accessories front. Suede lined brief cases and a re-edition of the doctor’s bag have a new metal lock and exude polished luxury while the hand finished footwear selection spans laced-up, tasseled loafers, Derby boots, crocodile and suede botton boots.
Angelo Di Febo - Brioni Master tailor
Leonardo Donà Delle Rose - Business Man
Eros Galbiati - Actor
Jack Guinnes - Actor
Kilian Hennessy - Perfumer
Douglas Mackie - Interior designer
Fredrikson Stallard - Designers
Vegard Vik - Chief of Police
Check out the new collection at www.brioni.com