London and Paris Fashion Weeks

News from Autumn Winter 2015

12 MARCH 2015,
Marko Mitanovski, AW15
Marko Mitanovski, AW15

This season's shows for Autumn Winter 2015 comes in force with a 70's revival but not just the typical boho chic look that we might except we also have the more geometrical 1970's that is so refreshing and inspiring to see.

Ladies First!

Emilia Wickstead

Having opened her store on Sloane Street not too long ago this is one of a kind collection with the spirit of youth and with the feel of vintage elegance, expensive looking fabrics, simple lines, wearable tunics, midi length skirts and wide trousers all clinched at the waist for a touch of femininity as well as the perfect red carpet evening gowns. From nude colours to rust or metallic checks, geometrical patterns on blush pink trousers combined with a red polo neck and of course the black shiny leather ensemble for a sexy look.This collection would fit very well in a Hitchcock movie, It's wearable yet very special and perfect to plan your autumn wardrobe.

Playing Games!

Peter Pilotto the label is the work of two men – Pilotto and his partner Christopher de Vos This enthusiastic duo met while studying together on the world-renowned fashion course at Antwerp's Royal Academy of Fine Art. This season it's about the art and graphics of boardgames. Prints are the initial focus of the brand and fun is the name of the game for this collection with dice and snake ladder, winding mazes chromed cabochon buttons and pinball inspired ensemble, multi-hued layouts adorning the fabrics, snowflakes embroideries and a selection of neons, red, green ,yellow, blues colours sliding down the fitted silhouettes. The dynamics all work, the fabrication and the tactile embellishments is a work of art and an inspiring collection to brighten up Autumn winter 2015.

Durable Allure!

Burberry certainly knows how to put on a show and I admire the fashion teams , including myself, rushing across London to get there on time as the show is always very punctual. The Elite team is here too with as always a fascinating front row with Cara, Naomi, Kate , Jourdan to name a few. The collection was titled Patchwork, Pattern and Prints an echo to the late sixites , suede boots,fringed ponchos crocheted inserts on coats, luxurious tasseled skirts, empire lines chiffon dresses, mirrored bodices. The chanteuse Clare Maguire was providing the music and was somehow reminiscent of Janis Joplin which set the scene perfectly. The heirloom piece, the Trench coat was still here this time with paisley patterns or power flowers design. A nonchalant allure for a peaceful autumn.

Extraordinaire!

Marko Mitanoski

Marko Mitanoski, Fashion Scout at The Free Mason Hall, presented a truly elaborate and striking collection celebrating the mystic of life and painting the models in black as it is his favourite colour and somehow makes sense and contrasting in white the last model simply because she was wearing white. The London-based Serbia born fashion artist whose designs have been worn by the likes of Paloma Faith, also counts Lady Gaga, who wore the designer's creations on her Monster Ball world tour. his designs are influenced by architecture and historical costumes originating from the renaissance and victorian era. this collection mixes leather and latex making this a very unique experience.

Beyond the Check!

DAKS

Girls clad in biker caps, Sixties colour-blocked shifts and quilted biker jackets and gilets took to the catwalk asserting this new bolder mood. Filippo Scuffi - creative director since 2010 - is rethinking the look of a very classic brand and introducing English motorcycling as the inspiration to go beyond the checks this season and to abandon perhaps temporarily the heritage trademark of Daks. This is sportswear with great tailoring and he is doing an excellent job, also introducing some softer pieces and some wide trousers with flower prints to hint at the 70’s mood of the moment.An unexpected autumn from DAKS but definitely stylish.

Ahead of Time!

Jean Pierre Braganza

“A vixen, a heroin and symmetry” this is the Braganza woman with an incarnation of Film noir with an Aviation theme. Detailed and abstract embellishment on loose tops, a plethora of coats, bold stripes, cut outs, origami details and draping on dresses . Sophisticated, modern tailored shapes coloured are maroon, black , bottle green,silhouette is fluid, comfortable yet conservative. A sexy harp autumn instead of sharp.

Dress For Success!

Roksanda

The venue is a Thirties art deco leisure centre reminiscent of glamour past and setting the mood for what is to be a gorgeous collection. Roksanda women are powerful in a feminine way which is always beautiful to see, no hard edges here or aggressive lines in fact this collection is full of swirls and liquidity and it glides on the catwalk. The bright colours of aubergine, royal blue, pinks, vintage burnt orange and wasp-waist dress coats , are all a signature of Roksanda collections and with such a perfect fit this collection is modern and a of the finest quality.

Show time in Paris

Dior

There is certainly nothing like Dior and not only because of the longevity of this company but also the quailty. Dior evokes many things past and present and this collection certainly does that it presents a new liberated, darker and more sexual femininity. Suits and coats are stylish yet relaxed with soft shoulders with a masculine tailoring, chain mail collar on a wool and silk dress, latex leggings, oversized dress shirts tucked in a tweed cut off skirt, organic form in prints and bodysuits just reminds us of this new approach yet keeping the collection very wearable with an unconventional twist.

Stella McCartney

This designer always produces a collection full of personality and always ahead of her time in a way that she is totally ethical , which I and many others admire and this season she presents two “ fur -free fur “ coats which make a statement yet are wearable too and is a welcome sight in what seems to have been a season full of fox, mink and other pelts. The coats are classic in a Katherine Hepburn mannish relaxed cut with a oversized bow at the waist, the suits are easy to wear yet buttoned askew or with wrapping details, dresses with hank chief hems or for the cocktail hour an antique gold with brocade details and asymmetrical necklines. A fluid silhouette throughout yet clever with super luxe knitted sweaters and again with a cut off detail on the shoulder. It takes a lot to achieve simplicity and timeless beauty which this collection does very well.

Andrew GN

This collection as a lot of soumptuos embellishments, passementerie on a beautiful grey flannel cape with hand knotted fringes. Coats with floral beading, plumes and sequinned details, appliqués and fringing all throughout on skirts and shirts add movement and breeziness. Satin tops with bell bottom sleeves in organza and lace, intricate layering, embroidery, tapestry all themed with either fitted jackets or perfectly cut trousers. let’s not forget the glamorous evening wear with satin and chiffon and a vibrant colour palette. An enchanted garden of details awaits our wardrobes.

Chanel

A very chic event at the Grand Palais which has been transformed into a Parisian Brasserie for this occasion of Chanel’s Autumn-Winter 2015/16 Ready-to-Wear collection. This season the "Brasserie Gabrielle" welcomes the "French Collection", a collection the creator wanted to be "very French". Cara Delevigne and Kendall Jenner amongst the models wearing the classic favourite Chanel tweed, along with the wool and mohair silk, mousseline and lace to the sometimes more androgynous silhouette with short box coats, white shirts, grosgrain belted jackets, slim cut leather trousers, jeans and tweed dresses. Colours such as navy, grey and burgundy in shades of red-black adorn the tartan or hound’s tooth patterns. This feminine collection also includes swing little black dresses for the evening with trompe- l'oeil details , lace skirts and gowns with fitted embroidered jackets to contrast the full dresses. This collection revisits all the iconic pieces from Chanel but keeps the spirit of modernity.

Valentino

Valentino new collection by creative directors by Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli presents the essence of a contemporary woman with sensuality expressed though floral prints and butterfly motifs exotic flowing panels with body parts perceived through lace and chiffon, independence and simplicity is created with geometrical layered panels and clean cut garments. For Autumn- Winter 2015 the inspiration for this collection are Emilie Flöge and Celia Birtwell, two women who were both artists and muses (Flöge was married to Gustav Klimt, and Birtwell to her husband, the designer Ossie Clark, and later a muse to the painter David Hockney). A fluid and elongated silhouette is created with tunics, chiffon robes and and high waist skirts oversized fisherman knit sweaters worn with A-line midi skirts and silk crepe dresses adorned with minimum details. Contrast of stripes and Monochrome pattern and multi coloured Gustav klimt inspired palette. Create an array of beautiful dresses as well as sumptuous evening wear. A multiform story, this is a collection with a seductive mood, change, evolution and craftsmanship. On a finishing note the crowd-pleasing surprise appearances of Derek Zoolander and Hansel, aka Ben Stiller and Owen Wilson, on the tail end of the Valentino show was rather surreal and a memorable occasion, as the duo are filming Zoolander 2 in Rome, It was just a totally fabulous fashion moment!