It’s not about good or bad, it’s about a change in society and culture, it’s an old wave coming back, grunge.
All the influences from 90’s have taken place into the most popular fashion houses to get back the big shoulders, tops and high cut pants, just like Belmain, Givenchy or American Apparel. Since the change from Yves Saint Laurent to Saint Laurent Paris things have changed, Hedi Slimane broke the rules and brought back the grunge into ready to wear, changing all we supposed to know about the iconic fashion house. The last campaign of Saint Laurent Paris divided the time by before and after, Hedi Slimane took the control of the house to expose the new generation’s manifesto, the “don’t give a fuck” attitude of the era.
An irreverent style, a spirit of rebellion and independence that gets deep into the younger generations and reflects into the fashion culture aswell. A new old movement that reactivates the punk and the wasted youth scene. All of these can be found represented by iconic characters of the industry, like Cole Mohr, Yuri Pleskun and Cara Delevingne (British Top Model), famous world wide by being faces of fashion brands, grunge editorials and style that represents the movement. One of the most popular london tv shows, Skins, also promoted this style, showing young people wasted and partying like the world is ending, what we have called the “don’t give a fuck” attitude and generation. There are several iconic images and inspirations that bring back the grunge which affects deeply into the fashion houses, the new collections and editorials.
Looking through the not so old YSL collections you can find many concepts but same style, classic cuts, colors and hats that mixed with pearls created a “new look” that it was sofisticated but still punk. Now the fashion house have put down the sofisticated and classy look to become a street wear brand, reflecting the new spirit of youth that breaks the rules and hang out with friends, a opened way of life that keeps growing in the younger generations by the popularity of the skate culture, which shares the same ideals and aesthetics, freedom all time.
The Saint Laurent grunge look brings back the scottish shirt, the flaccid fabrics and the rocker boots, remembering us to Kurt Cobain or Courtney Love, icons of the 90’s grunge, the typical “Trainspotting look”. Oversized pieces and long flaccid shirts are part of the trend and it’s part of the industry, appearing in editorials and fashion films, a cool look that represent the state of mind of people on the streets.
The change that involves the fashion house Saint Laurent Paris it also involves the culture and the society, this won’t be the last time that we will see grunge again, it has inspired many fashion houses and campaign, the concept of the 90’s grunge will endure and will be embraced by many brands, magazines and cultures. It’s an “I don’t care” to the whole massive movements, to the retail and to the rules, it’s a mind changing and a way of expressing youth, it’s a rebel thinking agaisnt the common and the good manners, agaisnt potilical views and goverment structures, a youth escape.