1. Ostica Antica: Stepping back in time

What to do
As you enter the site you will step onto what remains of an old road; large blocks of stone inlaid in the ground provide a different (if somewhat harsh on the knees) walking experience. It is considerably easier walking along the ground on either side of the road but I would recommend walking on the stones at least for a while to truly enjoy the experience of walking down a vast avenue with ancient ruins on either side. This main road is called Decumanus Maximus and as you walk along you will encounter remains of arches along the right side as well as marble pillars.

My highlight was the theatre which has rows of stone seats in a semi-circular layout. Sitting in the current top row of the theatre, I could imagine being part of the vast audience 2000 years ago cheering on the actors in the centre. This visit felt like a trip back in time because the vast open spaces meant that visitors were spread out and we had the place to ourselves. There are also opportunities to see the area from a height by climbing up buildings such as Casa di Diana and Thermopolium. The museum is definitely worth a visit; it has beautiful marble sculptures and mosaics.

How to get there
Take Metro (line B) to Basilica S. Paolo and change platforms to take the local train to Ostia Antica. Bus/trams routes also available. In December the museum closed at 15:30 and the site closed at 16:30. There is a lot of walking required to see the entirety of the area, much of which is on uneven surfaces.

Cost
1.50 euro each way. Since you don’t leave the station at Basilica S. Paolo to take the local train you can continue using the ticket you validated when entering the metro system.

Once you get there
Exit the station and cross the footbridge. Follow the road that continues straight onwards from the bridge and you will see signs for Ostia Antica. Tickets can be purchased at the office costing 10 euro for adults and 5 euro for concessions (includes EU citizens under 25 with proof such as a photocopy of the passport).

Food/Drink
There is a restaurant next to the museum (some distance inside the area - there are signposts) which has meals and drinks. This is a good area to take a break with plenty of seating but at the time of vising (late December 2018) the food was rather tasteless and even less value-for-money than most museums, and the coffee was more froth than liquid.

2) Castel Gandolfo: Pomp and Splendour

What to do
The Pope’s Summer Palace is a beautiful building. Apart from its palatial size, each room is beautifully furnished; exquisite wall paper matches the curtains, and there is a sense of overwhelming space. A gallery of portraits provides a long line of faces staring out at you as you first enter the palace (after having seen the Pope Mobile and an assortment of vehicles used by past popes) and the route through the palace takes you through the Pope’s private living quarters as well as more public areas.

The Collegiata di San Tommaso da Villanova designed by Bernini is also in the same square, and as with most churches in Italy, is home to beautiful paintings and a decorated dome.

The street leading out directly in front of the palace has rows of small shops with decorated displays. A common theme was the bicycle; festooned with bright flowers, covered with twinkling lights or wrapped with ribbons. The street cutting across at right angles (next to the Bernini church) leads on to a small terrace with a view of Lago di Albano, the volcanic lake that draws many tourists to the region during summer for water sports.

How to get there
Take the metro to Termini. Switch to a regional train (FL4) that goes to Albano Laziale and get off at Castel Gandolfo. The train ride takes about 44 minutes and the latter part is scenic as the train travels through mountainous areas.

Cost
Each way costs 1.50 euro for the metro and 2.10 euro for the train ticket.

Once you get there
As you exit the station you will see a road going up the hill. This is the easier climb. The other option is to take the steps in front of the station; this walk is more atmospheric as you walk up a flight of steps that are shrouded in greenery. In December there was no one else to be seen and no sound to be heard apart from birds singing.

Food/Drink
There are cafes and restaurants in the streets surrounding the main square (with the Pope’s Summer Palace). Porchetta is a regional speciality.